“This city has a legacy of textile production, so there’s immense
variety of fabrics in the local market, plus there’s a history of both
industrial and craft production, karigari. Craftspeople here understand
what it means to make export-quality products, and time-based
commitments; the city and the craftspeople here are already geared
towards that,” he says. Varman is part of a small-sized Ahmedabad-based
fashion brigade that includes Shyamal and Bhumika Shodhan and Anuradha
Vakil. One of Varman’s essential crafts-partnerships is with 56-year-old
Sitaben. An expert at traditional bead embroidery, she learned the
craft when she was 16; these two found each other at a crafts bazaar
held at NID. When Varman and I visited Sitaben’s home in a traditional
Gujarati pol (traditional housing cluster), she chided him for looking
so thin, telling him “Tu khaata nahin hain.”
They talked as equals, and she spoke with confidence about her work.
Access
to good craftspeople with varied expertise is as crucial to
architecture. Soenke Hoof is Doshi’s grandson-in-law and a partner at
Vastu Shilpa, which Doshi set up in 1955. Hoof’s entire career has been
spent in Ahmedabad since moving from Germany 12 years ago. I asked him
if he thought the relationship between designer and artisan is different
here. “I’ve only practised in Ahmedabad, though I have worked on
projects in other places. Here, I find a craftsman is eager to do a good
job because he takes pride in that. In many other cities, that
eagerness is missing.” Another designer confided, “Unlike in many other
places, a Gujarati craftsman will never take your design and give to
another designer.”
(Because I have always been mad about design.)
Read it all here
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